France

Air Pollution: Is Paris Gasping? And the rest of the world?

The Eiffel Tower beckons us from a distance as we drive in to Paris on the motorway from Normandy.   Her graceful shape will never cease to give me that moment’s thrill when approaching – the same thrill I had when I first arrived in this city decade…

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Alaska

Arctic Shaman's Seance

The snow fell quietly, covering the settlement in a thick white blanket.  The shaman had told Okwana she’d recognize the singing hut by the large narwhal ivory which jutted up out of the roof; it whistled when the wind raced over the ice, he’d said. …

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Normandy Notebook

Christmas in Normandy

On Christmas day 1066 William the Conqueror, Duke of Normandy, was crowned King of England in Westminster Abbey.  The English and French who were present cheered the new King so loudly that the clamour alarmed and panicked the French soldiers waiting…

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Iceland

Archangels and Angelica

A half crazed warrior Thorgeir and his poet brother Thormod were in the Icelandic mountains picking angelica for their soups, salads, and medicinal remedies.  At a place known as Thorgeir’s ledge, near Hornstrandir in the Western Fjords where the …

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